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Asanotheryear draws to a close, it is time to reflect on the best moments and especially those perfect wine memories.  For me personally, 2011 has been a year of discovery and an awareness of some very special wines, which are being made out there by a unique breed of winemaker.  Their winemaking philosophies reflect a growing movement towards the ‘natural’ way of life, a way of life before everything became so fast, so manipulated and so bland and superficial as a result. 

It all began with a bottle of Morgon 2009 by Marcel Lapierre …one of the “Gang of Four” in Beaujolais who followed the teachings of Jules Chauvet, the father of natural winemaking.  An absolutely unique expression of the depth and purity that can be achieved in an area famous for frivolous and fruity wines opened before me.  This Morgon was earth, fleshy and with such a long finish - a tribute to natural winemaking which goes beyond just low-yield and organic vineyards and embraces laisser-faire principles in the winery – no yeasts, sugar, enzymes or acids added and no or minimal sulphur.

I started reading and remembering other wines made with this philosophy such as Josko Gravner’s amphora wines and Elisabetta Foradori’s exquisite wine from the Nosiola grape and realized that I desperately wanted to go back to Georgia and visit an American who has been the driving force in popularizing the return to wine-making traditions dating back 7000 years with his winery Pheasant’s Tears. 

Finally, the chance comes and a small group of us find ourselves in Sighnagi, home to the Pheasant’s Tears winery, feasting ourswho believe that the future of Georgian wine lies in the qvevri, the clay symbolic egg-shaped vessel, buried deep in the ground where Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, Saperavi, Shapito and other grape varieties are fermented and held (вынашивать) until the right time has come for them to be drunk.

Some of the most poignant and ecstatic memories of wine for me will always be the Mtsvane and the Saperavi by Pheasant’s Tears.  The Mtsvane with its amber colour in the glass, followed by the explosion of apricots, almonds, honey and quince on the nose and the velvety, unctuous palate is on my favourites list.  The smoothness and balance of the Saperavi with its mulberry nose is simply light years away from the aggressive, tannic Saperavis I have tried before. 

 My New Year’s resolution is further explore such wine treasures around the world and to share them with wine lovers here!

Wishing that everyone welcomes in the New Year with something really special in your glasses!

Published in Vinofest magazine #6, 2011